Graduation Boulder
No topo. Bouldering from the roadside! A few highballs scale the steep, creekside of the boulder on slopey, polished edges. Classic V0 warm-ups face the road.
Approach by driving 0.7 miles past the canyon's mouth and park next to Graduation Boulder.
Directly across the creek and 30 feet uphill lies another boulder with several excellent challenges, including the full right-to-left lip traverse, Tough Guy (V7).
River Rumble (V4) pulls straight out the main north-facing overhang to the slab above.
The Pinnacle (North Face)
This crag rises directly south above Graduation Boulder.Approach by driving 0.85 miles past the canyon entrance to a pullout on the right (west) side of the paved road. Cross the road and a stone bridge over the creek. A rough trail works up the eroded hillside to the base.Routes are listed from right to left.2. Cheyenne (5.11b)3. Chivalry (5.10c)4. The Shiiter (5.12a)5. Balance (5.8) Fun moderate.6. Unknown (5.9) Exit right to #5's anchors.7. Tiger Snap (5.10d) Excellent. Follow beautiful edges up a blunt prow.8. Dragnet (5.11a) Two pitches, or one long 11-bolt route.9. Full Monte (5.11a)10. The Army Route (5.5) Four pitches.A classic put up by the US Army in the 1950s. The line is mostly fixed, with two-bolt anchors at each belay.Gear: In addition to quickdraws, carry a small rach of medium to large stoppers, and a small to medium cams.Descent: Carefully downclimb the south side onto a gravel ridge (belay optional).Walk south to more downclimbing to a scree slope that traverses to a saddle. Descend west down a scree gully to the road. 11. Roof Route (5.11+) 12. Wartime (5.8) 13. Corrugation Corner (5.10c).
Sun Slabs (The Pinnacle, East Face)
This is the lower, east-facing wall around the buttress from The Pinnacle, North Face.Approach from the northfacing wall, hike southeast around the corner and downclimb to an old prospect hold filled with water below a vertical wall.Routes are listed right to left.14. Slant Eye (5.9) Liebacks, jams and face climbing. Gear: Stoppers and small to medium cams.15. RopeKill (5.7). A short first pitch leads to the second, El Nino (5.11a). 16. Sizzle (5.11b).
Creekside Wall (The Pinnacle, Lower West Face)
No topo.This 40-foot-high, west-facing cliff rises directly above the creek, south of the footbridge opposite the parking area. A fun place to top rope. Most climbers sling trees on top of the cliff for anchors.Routes are listed right to the left from the right side of the big roof.17. Karo in Your Gas Tank (5.10a) Pull over two roofs, then head up and right past chopped bolts to the top. 18. Gonna Bust your Knuckles (5.8) Climb past two chopped bolts to the top.19. Unknown (5.5) Top rope the left-leaning, hand-to-fist crack in a dihedral.20. Downhill climb route (5.3) Access the top from here.21. A-Frame (5.10b) Gear: To three inches.22. Left Cave (5.9) Climb left after exiting the cave. Gear: to three inches.23. Toothless Bastard (5.12a) Four out of five bolts are chopped.24. Cart Her (5.12a) Belay anchors are chopped. Contrived: crack to the left is off.25. Old Aid (5.9+) Excellent! A beautiful hand crack past one piton to the top. Gear: bring stoppers and small cams. 26. Left of Old Aid are several crack and toprope routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10+.
West Face (The Pinnacle, Big West Face)
No topo.Approach by scrambling up a gully below the obvious, left-facing dihedral and slab.27. The West Face (5.0) Wander at will, aiming for the large tree on the cliff-top. Downclimb or walk off south to a scree gully.28. Crack Parallel (5.7) Two pitches up the steep slab left of an obvious, left-facing corner system on the west flank. Scramble up to the base of pitch 1, just left of a gash. Pitch 2 offers superb edging past eight bolts to bolt anchors just below the cliff-top. Make two double-rope rappels down the route, or walk-off south to a scree gully.Gear: Quickdraws, a few stoppers and small to medium camming units.
The Amphitheater
A cliff-lined cul-de-sac southwest of the Pinnacle on the abrupt north flank of Mt. Cutler. A variety of good sport routes are found on the solid granite and its shaded aspect makes it a good summer retreat.Approach from the parking area at 0.85 miles, about 150 feet up-canyon from the bridge, look for a trail on the left (east) side of the road. Follow this through woods and up a steep scree slope on the southwest side of The Pinnacle. Take a branch trail right toward the first obvious narrow amphitheater on the right (south). Continue up the steep, rough trail to the end of The Amphitheater.Allow 15 minutes of steep hiking from the car to the cliff.Routes are listed left to right. 29. Slick Willard (5.9)30. Climbing by the Brooks (5.8)31. The Full Male Deal (5.10c) Pitch one is stellar, 95 feet. Pitch 2 moves up right along the black streak to the cliff-top. Rappel route with double ropes.32.Cool Runnings (5.12d/13a) A long, 13-bolt pitch.33. Project Cave Route (5.13)34. The Dance of Shiva (5.12c) 35.Crickets in the Cabbage (5.10d)36. The Disclaimer (5.11b/c)Fantastic granite edges and arete climbing! A true classic!
The Flying Buttress
A prominent buttress west of The Amphitheater with two excellent, moderate, multi-pitch lines.Approach from the base of the steep gully into The Amphitheater, look on the right for a faint trail marked with a cairn. Hike west on this trail following switchbacks uphill to the base of the buttress. Scramble east over broken ledges to a pine tree.Routes are north-facing. Ten-minute approach.37. Hanging Gardens (5.6)Gear: Quickdraws, small to medium stoppers.Descent: Two double-rope rappels or a 200-foot rappel from the upper anchors.38. Supersonic (5.9-) Gear: Quickdraws and small wires.Descent: Same as #37.
Fly Cave Wall
No topo. A cave with steep, highball boulder problems. A good spot is a must and a pad is recommended. Three problems scale the wall, listed left to right. To approach pull into a large dirt pull-off on the north side of the road, about 2.3 miles up-canyon. Cross the creek on a fallen tree bridge and walk 30 feet to reach a 15-foot-high, overhanging wall with a four-foot-high cave on the lower right-hand side. 39. Choss Attack (V3) Follow a left-hand lieback and right-hand finger crack for 15 feet to a finishing jug at the bottom of the slab. 40. Tough Cookies (V5/V6) Sit-down start on the very left side of the cave. Crank through the middle of the overhand to reach a good hold at bottom of the upper slab. 41. Cave 101 (V4) Sit down start on the left side of the cave. Climb up and right across the lip of the cave through small edges to a good ledge at 15 feet.* information taken from ROCK&ICE magazine written by Stewart Green and Ian Spencer-Green
Stratton Open Space
Current Trail Lengths:
Chamberlain-Ridgeway Spur: 1.1 miles;
Gold Camp Path: .8 miles;
Ponderosa: .4 miles;
South Suburban Lower Loop: .4 miles;
South Suburban Upper Loop: .6 miles;
Stratton Springs Path: .5 mile;
Upper Meadows Loop: .7 miles;
Wildflower Path: .7 miles.
General Description: Most of the trails within the Stratton Open Space are easy to moderate in difficulty and offer “loops” that allow users to enjoy the Open Space. Keep in mind that all trails designated as “paths” are for hiking only; equestrians and cyclists may use all of the other loops.There are three trailheads that service the Stratton Open Space:1) La Veta Way off Cresta Rd2) Ridgeway off W.Cheyenne Blvd.3) trailhead on north side of road about .3 miles up the road from the main park gate by the Starsmore Discovery Center.Stratton Open Space Parking